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Jun 22, 20212 min read

Robotic Radiance; A Look into Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer ‘99 Collection, ‘no.13’

‘It wasn’t a fashion show. It was performance art.’


Echoing the words depicted in Vogue, Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 1999 collection, titled ‘No.13’, was captivating through it’s futuristic performance and cemented McQueen’s legacy as a revolutionary. Despite this collection containing over 70 different looks, the finale was the true show-stopper and clear highlight of the runway, dominating reviews after its reveal. With the wooden staging set up ready for the spectacle awaiting, Vogue journalist Sarah Mower recounts how McQueen ‘lulled us into a false sense of tranquility’ with the previous designs from the night, before the finale piece entered the scene. Model Shalom Harlow began walking down the runway in a seemingly ordinary dress for McQueen’s standards, a ‘strapless broderie anaglaise dress cinched across the bust with a leather belt’, yet it was not until she reached the circular centrepiece did this creation truly come to life.


McQueen was a pioneer in illustrating the constant battle between ‘man vs. machine’ and the finale piece of this show perfectly encapsulated this precise notion. Robots, initially used for spraying paint on cars, were set up on either side of the circular centerpiece, waiting for Harlow to approach. When Harlow reached the circular centerpiece the real show began as she started to rotate around and the machines began to dance. Harlow was previously a ballerina and the raw emotions conveyed through her movements paid homage to this quality of hers. As McQueen was controlling the robots a choreography was beginning to form between machine and model. The elegance of Harlow’s movements brought a breath-taking element to the finale performance and brought a sense of vulnerability against the impressive machines. Luminous yellow and pitch black paint smothered Harlow as she began to rotate around, even covering her face slightly. Referring back to Sarah Mower’s experience of the show, the performance was ‘poignant, but it’s sexual too’ which perfectly captures the essence of McQueen’s flare for the theatrics. Despite this sense of vulnerability against the machines, the female beauty and delicacy shines through Harlow’s performance, an element that McQueen celebrates in his creations.


Ultimately the finale piece of McQueen’s ‘no.13’ solidified the Londoner as a designer with a force to be reckoned with. The ingenious use of modern machinery, mixed with glamour, celebrates the beauty of women whilst giving light on the future of fashion. The emotions evoked when watching this performance art will send chills down your spine as you witness the transformation of a simplistic dress into a fashion industry masterpiece.


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